Hey what benefits does having your car run rich vs lean in terms of performance. ie hp
Running rich will ruin your sparkplugs, your catalyzer, will waste precious fuel and look like a steam locomotive. Running lean will increase chance of detonation and possibly ruin your engine. Both ruin or not help performance. I hope I’m right.
Richer tends to give more performance (to an extent) and is much less likely to cause knock. Lean tends to be more efficient, but more prone to knocking. There’s a happy medium that our production cars sit in. :)
Well lower gear needs higher rpm. You blip the throttle to get the needed rpm while you shift a gear down basically.
Sometimes I still mismatch… Am I crap driver? ☺
Hey at least you try! I mess up all the time. :)
Rev-matching is a dating platform for petrolheads.
I’ll let myself out.
Well done my friend, well done…
I smell top 10 comments of the week material.
make it happen xD i will sponser you.
It is easier in older cars than newer ones.. because newer cars have the delay from the drive by wire, so anyone on here embarrassed about missing the match of rpm to speed.. it’s probably not your fault..
yep good old throttle cable is just the way to go!
Unless your old car has a gas pedal way further in than the brake pedal, I should be locking the brakes up if I wanted to do heel and toe… I need some kind of spacer on the gas pedal so that it is at the same height as the brake pedal
My car is drive by wire & i know that feeling
It depends on the car. I could rev match a 2015 Mustang GT after being in the car for 5 minutes, and rev matching is my default driving mode in my 2013 ProCeed GT. The only time a modern car will be difficult to rev match will be if its broken. Hell I used to rev match in a Diesel Juke.
“Don’t blame the tool, blame the artist.”
If you can’t rev match a modern car then you’re doing something wrong.
I personally think mismatching can be pretty helpful at times on loose surfaces. I use clutch-kick fairly frequently to help get my tail out when I drive on snow and gravel. My matching could probably use a little work for tarmac cornering and downshifting, but I think I do ok!
What about when you’re downshifting to slow to a stop? I usually don’t worry about matching revs and just use the break until I’m going slow enough for (usually) second gear to help slow me down
Brakes are cheaper than a clutch..
rev match to lower gear then stop giving throttle to the car. Just my daily experience, I don’t like to wear my brake pads. My way is, clutch+brake+rev match( since i’ve started braking, I don’t need much extra rpm to match it), downshift and let go of the clutch. But it’s tricky, too much throttle you will go faster or too less you will wear the clutch. It also help to get into lower gear earlier.
In daily normal driving, not rev-matching won’t affect the car’s balance that much as it is needed during track of fast driving. So the question goes dows to the “wear” part…: Which one costs more?
Changing clutch disc (etc) a few thousand miles earlier than you would with rev-matching Or the more petrol you burn every time you rev the engine to match the revs for the next gear?
Ex. if changing the clutch parts costs 300pounds (numbers are random) and with rev-matching you need to change them within 100.000miles, but without rev-matching you need to change them within 80.000 miles… how much petrol more do you spend within those 100k miles to do the rev matching?? !!!
If the numbers are the same i would prefer rev matching because of driver technique advancing and obviously fun
Cost of petrol will be minute compared to the amount spent on a clutch. Let’s say this is your daily, the clutch should be good for 150k miles and on (my pickup has 240k on oem clutch) unless you abuse it frequently.
Let’s say the cost of a clutch with a flywheel on the truck (using as an example) is $280usd and takes 5 hours to replace. I say my time us worth $25/hr, so that’s another $125. Cost to replace is $405, and has lasted me 240k miles. Clutch served a value of abouts $2 per 1k miles with Rev matching. Now let’s say I don’t Rev match and kill the clutch every 60k miles and by some fluke it’s only the clutch, no dif or driveshaft damage. Clutch service value is now $7 per 1k miles.
I manage 19mpg combination with down shifting and Rev matching. About 19.5/20 without Rev matching. I’ll use the cost of fuel over in the UK, about $8.50/gal (that right?) so, over the span of 1000 miles, spent $447 in fuel with Rev matching and $425 without.
So the total (for my truck) is $449 per 1000 miles if I Rev match. $432 if I don’t, plus cost of repair for the transmission, driveshaft, differential, mounts, and possibly engine in the near future.
Tl;Dr, Rev matching is cheaper in the long run.
Ps. Please excuse grammatical errors, typed this all on my phone
I just came here to listen some revving. I’m a bit disappointed, but EE got the stuff well explained, as usual.
Would it be any use to use the heel-toe technique with regards to saving brakes and clutch? Just curious…
I don’t think heel and toe would save the breaks because you are essentially pressing the break while rev matching
Comments
Hey what benefits does having your car run rich vs lean in terms of performance. ie hp
Running rich will ruin your sparkplugs, your catalyzer, will waste precious fuel and look like a steam locomotive. Running lean will increase chance of detonation and possibly ruin your engine. Both ruin or not help performance. I hope I’m right.
Richer tends to give more performance (to an extent) and is much less likely to cause knock. Lean tends to be more efficient, but more prone to knocking. There’s a happy medium that our production cars sit in. :)
Well lower gear needs higher rpm. You blip the throttle to get the needed rpm while you shift a gear down basically.
Sometimes I still mismatch… Am I crap driver? ☺
Hey at least you try! I mess up all the time. :)
Rev-matching is a dating platform for petrolheads.
I’ll let myself out.
Well done my friend, well done…
I smell top 10 comments of the week material.
make it happen xD i will sponser you.
It is easier in older cars than newer ones.. because newer cars have the delay from the drive by wire, so anyone on here embarrassed about missing the match of rpm to speed.. it’s probably not your fault..
yep good old throttle cable is just the way to go!
Unless your old car has a gas pedal way further in than the brake pedal, I should be locking the brakes up if I wanted to do heel and toe… I need some kind of spacer on the gas pedal so that it is at the same height as the brake pedal
My car is drive by wire & i know that feeling
It depends on the car. I could rev match a 2015 Mustang GT after being in the car for 5 minutes, and rev matching is my default driving mode in my 2013 ProCeed GT. The only time a modern car will be difficult to rev match will be if its broken. Hell I used to rev match in a Diesel Juke.
“Don’t blame the tool, blame the artist.”
If you can’t rev match a modern car then you’re doing something wrong.
I personally think mismatching can be pretty helpful at times on loose surfaces. I use clutch-kick fairly frequently to help get my tail out when I drive on snow and gravel. My matching could probably use a little work for tarmac cornering and downshifting, but I think I do ok!
What about when you’re downshifting to slow to a stop? I usually don’t worry about matching revs and just use the break until I’m going slow enough for (usually) second gear to help slow me down
Brakes are cheaper than a clutch..
rev match to lower gear then stop giving throttle to the car. Just my daily experience, I don’t like to wear my brake pads.
My way is, clutch+brake+rev match( since i’ve started braking, I don’t need much extra rpm to match it), downshift and let go of the clutch. But it’s tricky, too much throttle you will go faster or too less you will wear the clutch. It also help to get into lower gear earlier.
In daily normal driving, not rev-matching won’t affect the car’s balance that much as it is needed during track of fast driving. So the question goes dows to the “wear” part…:
Which one costs more?
Changing clutch disc (etc) a few thousand miles earlier than you would with rev-matching
Or the more petrol you burn every time you rev the engine to match the revs for the next gear?
Ex. if changing the clutch parts costs 300pounds (numbers are random) and with rev-matching you need to change them within 100.000miles, but without rev-matching you need to change them within 80.000 miles… how much petrol more do you spend within those 100k miles to do the rev matching?? !!!
If the numbers are the same i would prefer rev matching because of driver technique advancing and obviously fun
Cost of petrol will be minute compared to the amount spent on a clutch. Let’s say this is your daily, the clutch should be good for 150k miles and on (my pickup has 240k on oem clutch) unless you abuse it frequently.
Let’s say the cost of a clutch with a flywheel on the truck (using as an example) is $280usd and takes 5 hours to replace. I say my time us worth $25/hr, so that’s another $125. Cost to replace is $405, and has lasted me 240k miles. Clutch served a value of abouts $2 per 1k miles with Rev matching. Now let’s say I don’t Rev match and kill the clutch every 60k miles and by some fluke it’s only the clutch, no dif or driveshaft damage. Clutch service value is now $7 per 1k miles.
I manage 19mpg combination with down shifting and Rev matching. About 19.5/20 without Rev matching. I’ll use the cost of fuel over in the UK, about $8.50/gal (that right?) so, over the span of 1000 miles, spent $447 in fuel with Rev matching and $425 without.
So the total (for my truck) is $449 per 1000 miles if I Rev match. $432 if I don’t, plus cost of repair for the transmission, driveshaft, differential, mounts, and possibly engine in the near future.
Tl;Dr, Rev matching is cheaper in the long run.
Ps. Please excuse grammatical errors, typed this all on my phone
I just came here to listen some revving. I’m a bit disappointed, but EE got the stuff well explained, as usual.
Would it be any use to use the heel-toe technique with regards to saving brakes and clutch? Just curious…
I don’t think heel and toe would save the breaks because you are essentially pressing the break while rev matching