Car Photography: Choosing the right lens

Last time I talked about the differences between small-format and medium-format cameras. Today I will talk about choosing lenses for your DSLR.
This is a tutorial that I wanted to write a year ago, however circumstances led me to putting it off until now.

Above we have two of my 3-piece essential kit: my “pancake” lenses. They are compact, lightweight, prime lenses. The lens on the left is a 20mm ultrawide, the one on the right is a 50mm, and the other part of the trio was used to take this photo and is a comparatively large 100mm macro.

Prime vs Zoom:
The camera above was my old D600 that I sold to my mom. As you can see it looks massive and weighs a tonne. It won’t sit on a gorilla-pod (small table-top tripod) because it is too heavy and can’t sit without drooping.
Enough about the camera, let’s look at the lens. It is a 28-85mm zoom lens. Zoom - my lenses are Prime.
A Prime lens is one with only one focal length, for example 50mm. A Zoom lens covers many focal lengths, therefore it zooms.
Because Prime lenses are only one focal length, they are smaller, sharper and they help compose a photo better.
If you look at the zoom lens you will see a series of numbers - these aren’t how much you’re zooming, they are common focal lengths; the idea of a zoom lens is to replace many prime lenses. This is good for cutting costs, but because of the moving parts and the curvature of the optics inside, the focal lengths at either end (28 and 85) often suffer and photos can end up looking weak/blurry.
-Instead of standing in one position and using the zoom lens to zoom in and out, zoom to a number on the lens (e.g 35 or 50) and compose the photo at that length.

Prime lenses can get annoying because you will often be switching lenses depending on the situation, however knowing your subject makes the decision that much easier. As I stated in my last post, choose a wide lens for round cars, and standard lenses for square cars. There are a few exceptions to this rule, such as taking a photo in an open area.
Prime lenses will often get you amazing results since they are made to a specific focal length, therefore you understand the lens and get a feel for how to compose photos. Get used to a 50mm lens, for example, and you can tell a good photo when you can see one and know how to exclude/include elements for that perfect shot.

Next I will compare an ultra-wide angle lens to a standard lens.

Wide and Ultra-wide Lenses:
These are best used when you get really close to your subject, as they will stretch and warp the subject and make it appear more curved.
They are also good when shooting the interior of a car since they can fit everything in, and give the illusion of space.
They can be used like normal lenses (standing at normal height, a few metres away), however they get everything in the photo and are therefore best used in open areas for this reason - see the third photo above, it looks like my car is parked in the middle of a field. Not being level with the ground/horizon often leads to a fish-eye effect which isn’t always wanted.
They are very good at low angle shots, but once again they often warp the horizon if pointed upward.
Very good for night photos where you want to see the car and the stars above.

Standard Lenses:
These are good for cars that are either square, or just not round. I used a 50mm lens here, however I personally think a 35mm does a better job since you don’t have to stand as far back when taking photos - imagine being at a car show or car meet with many people walking around and many obstacles.
They are good for doing small aspect of the interior - think of Speedhunters showing the gear knob or the speedometer - since they can’t fit everything in.
They are good for showing natural curves, shapes and objects.
They have a shorter depth-of-field (how much is in focus) so are better suited to taking photos of badges or small parts (notice how the brake calipers are sharp while the background is blurry in the last photo).

The photo above exaggerates the proportions of the car using an ultra-wide, while the photo below shows the car more naturally with a standard lens. Notice the size of the front wheel, and how much is in focus. Also note how stretched the rear wheel arch is, and the angle of the doors.

Look how cute the Starlet looks, and how round the Cobra is.

To conclude:
-Prime lenses take better photos (get a 35mm).
-Don’t stick to one lens.
-Take the ultra-wide to the classic car show.
-Take the standard lens to the Volvo 240 meet.
-If you have a zoom lens, stop at the numbers marked on top - don’t zoom in/out with it.

This content was originally posted by a Car Throttle user on our Community platform and was not commissioned or created by the CT editorial team.

Sponsored Posts

Comments

Anonymous

Or you could just invest in good zoom lenses that have as good if not better image quality than your primes

07/28/2016 - 22:47 |
5 | 0
Anonymous

In reply to by Anonymous (not verified)

I get what you mean mate, but better image quality than primes ? I don’t really think so

07/29/2016 - 11:58 |
1 | 1
Valters Pelns

In reply to by Anonymous (not verified)

hell no! Each lens have best sharpness, when it’s stopped down. For example 50mm f1.4 is best at 2.8, but f2.8 70-200 zoom, is best at f5,6.
If I compare between mine lenses sharpest is Sigma Art 50mm, even if I compare my nikkor glass, 70-200 VR2 vs 85mm G f1.4, 85mm wins! Of course there is soft primes and good zooms will win sharpness contest, but it’s not always fight about sharpness! It’s more about bokeh and overall look of photo.

08/03/2016 - 11:57 |
0 | 0
johntourage

I love my 85mm, i take people to bokehtown with it

07/29/2016 - 04:45 |
2 | 0

Looks a bit like the Lensbaby effect. They have good lenses for the price, but some are very gimmicky.

07/30/2016 - 23:07 |
0 | 0
Rogue86 Photography

I assume that “shape of the exterior lens” is something lost in translation - maybe english isnt their first language.

07/29/2016 - 05:06 |
0 | 0

I think he means the outermost glass optic. I haven’t read it, and don’t want to because the lst few comments seem like a sess-pool of photography snobs.

07/30/2016 - 22:25 |
0 | 0
Anonymous

All you need is a DSLR with 35mm and a decent phone camera and you are sorted. Agree with the point about 35mm being more useful in car shows. That is exactly why I picked it over 50mm. Plus 50 mm is useless for shooting inside the car.
However, I strongly disagree with the point about prime lenses being useless if one has a zoom lens. Zoom lenses barely offer the kind of aperture you can get on prime lenses for a fraction of price. Could be very useful while shooting certain features of the car or while shooting under street lights.
Along with that, in most cases auto focus works faster on prime lenses when compared to even costlier zoom lenses. Works very well when you are trying to shoot cars in street or on a racetrack

07/29/2016 - 05:26 |
1 | 0
Soarer-Dom

In reply to by Anonymous (not verified)

What I mean is that if you have a standard 18-55 then you’re better off getting an 85mm than a 50mm as it’s within the range of 18-55, therefore its more practical. I removed it now because it didn’t make much sense to say “get a 35mm” then say that. As for the rest of the post, it is all subjective - photography is an art and doesn’t have to be correct by the book, but it does look better if you follow the rule of 3rds etc. The photos here were just quick examples to show what happens when you play with the lenses.

07/29/2016 - 08:14 |
0 | 0
Anonymous

I personally prefer wide angles for moving cars and standard to short telephoto for some lovely detailed shots. For drifting and stills I usually use a 24-70 and for stills I’m usually using a 50 or 85.

07/29/2016 - 06:42 |
0 | 0
Anonymous

I usually use a 50mm and an 18-55mm,

07/29/2016 - 09:17 |
0 | 0
Anonymous

I think alot of it is to do with using the camera, sure better gear gives you better results but if you can’t do it with old cheap stuff then what’s the point. This was taken on an old canon 400D with a 50mm prime.

07/29/2016 - 17:56 |
3 | 0
Soarer-Dom

In reply to by Anonymous (not verified)

I still use my F80 film camera from time to time. I lost a lot of film photos when my HDD crashed, and have a roll or 2 of B&W film that I can’t get developed in my city.

07/30/2016 - 23:05 |
0 | 0
Anonymous

Great article! But remember, nothing beats experamenting on your own. You learn best with trial and error.

07/30/2016 - 03:54 |
0 | 0
Martin S-R

I always use my trusty 50mm, or as its called “nifty 50”

07/31/2016 - 04:11 |
0 | 0
Olgun Kordal

In my humble opinion I’d say the best stuff is whatever conveys what it is you’re trying to say about the subject. If you can share your vision with an iPhone or with a Leica then your good to go and that’s what pays the bills. But can’t deny I do love a bit of creamy Bokeh from a fast prime.

08/02/2016 - 20:49 |
0 | 0