Hey EE, Sorry for the comment unrelated from the post, but I was wondering if there was a good way for myself to get in contact with you. I have a school project about the possible EPA restrictions on race cars and emissions systems, and was wondering if you would be willing to answer a few short questions (ie, do you believe the EPA has overstepped it’s bounds in regards to the restrictions). I figured that I would ask you, as you are obviously one of the smartest car people I know. If you are interested, I can give you my E-mail or Instagram, but otherwise, thanks for your time!
-Sam Noonan
For off road enthusiasts: on the wheel spacer argument for larger/wider wheels and tires, MAKE SURE you look for Hubcentric, not wheel centric, as the latter have a much higher risk of failing due to stress than the former.
Wooopps.. -50mm and -30mm lowering springs and 20mm spacer in the back and 15 upfront.. no problems for the past 3 years.
I know I want to go with an air ride suspension. I wish I could find data between a car stock, modified with coilovers, then modified with air ride suspension for the comparison. It really won’t change my mind. lol But i am curious.
That guy is cool, but i have a different opinion on two things based on experience and not on theory: I upgraded the swaybars on all my cars and i only gain benefits. My old s13 with stock swaybars was prone to understeer/oversteer, with uprated swaybars it was like on rails without any understeer/ovesteer, and i gained steering responsivness too. Same thing with my 300zx, and on my old micra k11 they TOTALLY changed the car in a go kart. Also lovering spring if not extreme (-2/-3,5mm) are not that dangerous and will give you a better handling, expecially when paired with a sport shock like the Koni.
I think that guy go too much on the theory and never felt on his hands how a stock shty car can benefit on those two simple mods. Like a stock micra where the suspension/swaybars are made for going in the supermarket and cruise at 40kmh, not for fast driving.
“But it looks cool” Says the internet
I much rather my wheels rubbing on my hard brake lines whenever on full lock.
Anyone who isnt a simpleton or ‘livin dat 3rd world poverty life’ should at a bare minimum invest in matching lower shocks and springs. That or not lower it at all. Why would you make your car actively worse handling? On another note not one person has mentioned getting the geometry corrected after lowering a car. But maybe im not fixated on purely making the car look the part but instead choosing to actually make the car a capable machine.
I run lowering springs on the front. I can’t fit a coil over in the space that the spring is in -free length is 9 inches or so and the bump stop lives in there too. Effective space is about 5 inches. I also run adjustable dampers parallel to the springs. Can’t have coil overs on the back - there are leaf springs back there (but also with adjustable dampers) I also run 2.5 degrees negative camber, via longer lower arms. Those adjustable ones look a bit scary. I also run a thicker anti roll bar. A curiosity of my car’s handling is that increasing the front roll stiffness decreases understeer. And I have 10mm of spacer on the back (20mm track width increase) and 10mm track width increase on the front. I only added the front to balance the back. I only added the back to stop the tyres catching on the leaf springs, but then the tyres are 4 sizes wider.
As the man says, these are 5 mods that can run your car if you do them wrong. I can set mine up so it’s just awful - a rear that’s harder than the front makes for a terrible day!
Comments
Hey EE,
Sorry for the comment unrelated from the post, but I was wondering if there was a good way for myself to get in contact with you. I have a school project about the possible EPA restrictions on race cars and emissions systems, and was wondering if you would be willing to answer a few short questions (ie, do you believe the EPA has overstepped it’s bounds in regards to the restrictions). I figured that I would ask you, as you are obviously one of the smartest car people I know. If you are interested, I can give you my E-mail or Instagram, but otherwise, thanks for your time!
-Sam Noonan
For off road enthusiasts: on the wheel spacer argument for larger/wider wheels and tires, MAKE SURE you look for Hubcentric, not wheel centric, as the latter have a much higher risk of failing due to stress than the former.
Wooopps..
-50mm and -30mm lowering springs and 20mm spacer in the back and 15 upfront.. no problems for the past 3 years.
I know I want to go with an air ride suspension. I wish I could find data between a car stock, modified with coilovers, then modified with air ride suspension for the comparison. It really won’t change my mind. lol But i am curious.
That guy is cool, but i have a different opinion on two things based on experience and not on theory:
I upgraded the swaybars on all my cars and i only gain benefits. My old s13 with stock swaybars was prone to understeer/oversteer, with uprated swaybars it was like on rails without any understeer/ovesteer, and i gained steering responsivness too. Same thing with my 300zx, and on my old micra k11 they TOTALLY changed the car in a go kart.
Also lovering spring if not extreme (-2/-3,5mm) are not that dangerous and will give you a better handling, expecially when paired with a sport shock like the Koni.
I think that guy go too much on the theory and never felt on his hands how a stock shty car can benefit on those two simple mods. Like a stock micra where the suspension/swaybars are made for going in the supermarket and cruise at 40kmh, not for fast driving.
“But it looks cool” Says the internet
I much rather my wheels rubbing on my hard brake lines whenever on full lock.
Anyone who isnt a simpleton or ‘livin dat 3rd world poverty life’ should at a bare minimum invest in matching lower shocks and springs. That or not lower it at all. Why would you make your car actively worse handling? On another note not one person has mentioned getting the geometry corrected after lowering a car. But maybe im not fixated on purely making the car look the part but instead choosing to actually make the car a capable machine.
So Engineering Explained when are you putting those goodies on the integra?
I run lowering springs on the front. I can’t fit a coil over in the space that the spring is in -free length is 9 inches or so and the bump stop lives in there too. Effective space is about 5 inches. I also run adjustable dampers parallel to the springs. Can’t have coil overs on the back - there are leaf springs back there (but also with adjustable dampers)
I also run 2.5 degrees negative camber, via longer lower arms. Those adjustable ones look a bit scary.
I also run a thicker anti roll bar. A curiosity of my car’s handling is that increasing the front roll stiffness decreases understeer.
And I have 10mm of spacer on the back (20mm track width increase) and 10mm track width increase on the front. I only added the front to balance the back. I only added the back to stop the tyres catching on the leaf springs, but then the tyres are 4 sizes wider.
As the man says, these are 5 mods that can run your car if you do them wrong. I can set mine up so it’s just awful - a rear that’s harder than the front makes for a terrible day!